Yes. When the manufacturer has produced a video then its linked alongside a product’s usage and data sheet. Dane Care uses Vimeo.com to store videos made ourselves. Search Dane Care Ltd to see all of these OR use the links imbedded in instructions.
For example https://vimeo.com/78548844 demonstrates mechanical washing of a floor.
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The project temperature MUST be lifted to a comfortable level - at least 16 degees room temperature throughout.
The fact is that oil WILL NOT DRY on schedule unless this is done. Unless radiators are reconnected you really shouldn’t be floor finishing. This is particularly true of
hardwax oils which could take a week to go off when conditions arent right – that can
be a huge disruption. So if you are in an unresolvable situation then use an impregnating oil
to get treatment and protection in the floor then sort out the full finish once heating is on.
This issue does not just cover the floor finish, but also the wood quality will be affected. Cold equals damp so if you sand and fill the wood THEN heat the room up then the fact is the floor is likely to shrink and gaps reappear.
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It is most likely that too much has been used, the Lacquer Care must only be applied in a thin layer, like a kind of polish, consumption: 1 litre/60 m2.
Should the result not be satisfactory in first try, the floor can be washed with WOCA Wood Cleaner. Make the solution a bit stronger than normal (1:4-5). For instance, leave it on the floor for 5-10 minutes, rub with mop or cloth and wash with clean water. Now, it is ready for a new treatment.
It is a good idea to start wringing the cloth or mop in cold water, so it does not absorb all the Lacquer Care. Spread the care in a thin layer. Same procedure as if you wipe the floor with a wrong cloth.
Gloss
The Lacquer Care with gloss is easier to apply/spread than the mat one, as it does not contain matting agents which can be difficult to spread evenly. When you only apply a very thin layer, you can easily use a Lacquer Care with gloss on a mat floor without it is getting glossy.
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Full question:
My niece urgently needs your help. She has bought Faxe white lye and Woca Wood Oil White from you online together with the special cloths. These have been applied according to the instructions but the oil doesn't seem to be drying. This is urgent as the oil has been applied to the floors of a newly acquired house to which she and her family must move on the weekend. With the floors still tacky they are stuck. The oil was applied 2 days ago and still isn't dry. What should she do? Please give as much advice as you can. If, for example, the oil has been applied too thickly (although her builders say they haven't done this) how can it be removed, cured etc.
Answer:
Its worrying as the only reason to get this sort of long drying time is of the oil has been applied as a layer rather than being worked into the surface. Normally the worker should walk away from a damp (almost dry) surface which then wouldn't show a footprint after 6 to 8 hours. 2 days, therefore, is disastrous.
Its painful to say this, but since you ask: To remove it - belt sanding with plenty of paper to use since the belts will get gummed up very quickly.
However, a possible solution to cure it - if its at the point that it can be walked on but is still tacky then I've experience that rubbing it down with patina disks and slightly more oil can crystalise the surface, but that is quite specialist.
Other than that, it's a matter of time. Not wanting to sound miserable but such a mess can take more than 2 days to cure particularly if the heating isnt particularly high.
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If it is still sticky, you can dissolve it with white spirit and a green polish pad. Wet a cloth with white spirit and wipe it over the floor (only a small area at a time). Then you polish with green pad with the machine till the sticky oil is removed.
If it is a large area or even just a small area, for instance a table, you can start removing most of it with a scraper. Alternatively, you can let it dry completely (it takes a least one week) and then scratch it off (you can also start with the scraper). Now, you have to apply Maintenance Oil or Wood Floor Oil again. Remember to wipe off the excess oil after 15-20 minutes.
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When a floor is oiled the joints will draw it down into themselves through a capillary action. It is then deprived of oxygen and can take some time to cure there. That is all good until one of several things happen: 1) the floor is loose and flexs as someone walks on it – the oil is pumped back out in micro-beads, 2) the floor temperature increases and the oil swells before popping out. This heat rise can be from central heating coming on or the sun passing across the floor.
Both of these are unavoidable problems. Simply continue to wipe the oil away until the problem ceases.
If the house is cold and the underfloor heating hasn’t been on yet then start low and work up its target temperature daily by 5 degC with the aim of getting the room to 18 degC. Don’t do sudden leaps and don’t aim too high as the floor will have to be hotter to achieve this and cosnequently too hot for the oiling process.
Full question:
Approx 80% of our work needs to be complete in 1 day. When I read
your application methods it seems most finishes can't be completed in 1 day. What do you recommend?
Answer:
Answering this requires me to turn to practical experience as a contractor rather than what my suppliers say on their instructions!
I'm not convinced that any hardwax oil will do a job in one day even if you buff it into the surface. It will still be sticky after several hours and everything will grind to a halt if you try going back on. I also think that all impregnating oils need 2 or 3 applications to build an even finish that is going to look as good the next morning as it does when you leave the house. So basically you need an impregnating oil that dries immediately so you can quickly get back on for a 2nd go or within a coffee break timeframe.
From the range I have the only one meeting this criteria is Hesse Natural Oil OE-83 with 10% hardener OE87 added. We first used this as contractors in the Pollen Street restaurant in central London. This is a Michelin starred place and they were cheesed off with the hardwax oil they had been sold which was continously walking off in stripes. Our work was done in May last year, we reoiled in August and when I saw it recently with a view to another 6 month maintenance it was looking very satisfactory. That is open access being a restaurant...
If you read the instructions you'll see that is says leave 16 hours between applications! My guys say they could go back on after 30 minutes and its one of those oils you have to work in 15 - 20m2 sections – although there are no overlap marks. I also have put a picture of the restaurant floor during progress. The upper half is the section done on the first stage so shows the finish colour. The lower half is the previous (lovely) hardwax oil! They said the oak didnt go as dark as they are used to with a Woca Oil, but I can say it looks a lot more mature now due to the cleaning wear it has taken in the last 9 months. There are NOT, however, the worn-through areas that cry out dirt/failure/damage which noone wants.
If you do have time on your side then I'd still recommend the Woca Master Floor Oil or High Solid Oil, which is slower drying and so goes deeper in the wood. The Eurostar project is proof of its worth after 6 years. Unfortunately you cant see that floor without buying a ticket to Paris! However, we have just done the same system on the upper level of the viewing platform of London's highest building so for ÂŁ25 you get to see a beautiful floor and also London.
You can do that. But you have to make sure to clean CAREFULLY with Wood Cleaner and wash with clean water to make sure that the surface is no longer basic and with that damage the lacquer.
Any lacquer will irreversibly yellow the appearance of the floor so you need to test the system to completion before undertaking it.
Finally, you wont know if the adhesion of the lacquer is good for some months after the application. If it fails then you will see flaking and discolouration at which point it becomes inevitable that the floor must be sanded to refinish it correctly.
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It was probably not newly sanded wood. Already after 3 weeks, the wood starts creating lignin which is what turns yellow. Lye does not lighten up yellowed wood but only matures the wood so it does not turn yellow so fast. If you apply lye to already yellowed woodwork, it will react with the lignin and turns to this ugly green colour.
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Full question:
The samples I ordered from you last week were to treat just two short floorboards in a doorway where too much lye had been sanded off by our not so great floor man... I sanded this area carefully again and then applied the lye. But - the lye is not working! Because oil had been applied to this area as well, I thought maybe I hadn't sanded off all the oil. I started over, sanded even more this time and then applied lye again.
Still, not working. The wood looks more orange than ever! I have no idea what I'm doing wrong?
Answer:
This is a difficult scenario. You need to sand much harder than you may expect as otherwise you simply compress the already oiled wood and set up a barrier to the effect of lye and white oil. After doing that it's also just a question of time. Even a couple of weeks can make a big difference to the way the lye treated surface oxidises. So even with the best work you cant get it exactly right and need to sit back and let time blend the patch in with the other floor boards in the room.
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You wait; lye is not a lacquer but a chemical treatment of the wood. During the process, which takes approximately 6-8 weeks, discolorations may appear, both yellow, orange and even greenish. But it will disappear again by itself. At the same time, if you wash the floor regularly with WOCA Natural Soap white, you expedite the process.
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